10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Going to Bhutan
After several trips to Bhutan, here are some tips that will help you make the most of your trip. Don’t be surprised if you find you really like Bhutan and its people. It is a tiny, remote country that most of your friends have probably never heard of, but it is also charming and grows on you. Take the trip, enjoy the journey, breathe the fresh air and, if you are lucky, let Bhutan change your perspective on life.
1. Flying into Bhutan
Even though the chances are small that you will have a problem, just remember that flights into Bhutan are heavily weather-dependent, and, depending on what time of year you travel, conditions can be unpredictable. All take-offs and landings at Paro Airport are by visual flight rules, which means pilots can only take off or land if they are able to see the runway and surrounding hills. Flights do not operate at night or in poor conditions, so flights can be delayed. Keep any basic necessities in your carry-on bag in case of delays.
If you're flying internationally and require a connecting flight to Paro, your luggage will not be checked in all the way to Paro via your first flight. You will need to recheck your luggage at the counter before you catch a connecting flight. This is important to note if you've got a connecting flight and require the time to go through immigration, collect your luggage and check-in again. And make sure you have a copy of your Bhutanese visa. You will not be allowed to board your flight without it.
The Paro airport is one of the most dangerous in the world to fly into due to its location, but sit back and enjoy the view as the pilots safely guide the plane to the runway.
2. The Roads
If you have been doing your research, you know that everyone says the roads are bad. No, they are not just bad, they are worse than that. There is one major highway that runs west to east and it is an incredibly winding road through the mountains. The distance between towns is not far, but the roads are such that it takes hours to go fairly short distances. The roads are also susceptible to rock and mud slides during certain times of the year. Expect delays at least somewhere on your journey. It is amazing how quickly the people of Bhutan can move a mountain and fix a road or more a bridge. If you are susceptible to motion sickness, make sure you sit in the front of your vehicle and have Dramamine or motion sickness bracelets close by.
3. WIFI
Most hotels and some restaurants have WIFI and it is fairly reliable in the bigger towns. The further afield you go, the less coverage you will find. There are two mobile network providers in Bhutan, so you can ask your local guide to help you purchase a SIM on arrival, but make sure you unlock your phone before you insert the SIM card. 2G and 3G connectivity are available throughout the country. Let us be honest, isn’t one of the reasons you are traveling to Bhutan is to “get away from it all.”
4. How to Dress
Pack light (most hotels offer laundry service). But having said that, layer, layer, layer. You will wear that t-shirt, long sleeved shirt and winter coat, sometimes all in one day. Days can be warm, afternoons breezy and nights downright cold. Invest in a good pair of hiking shoes if you plan to do any hiking (Tiger’s Nest) or trekking.
When visiting a Dzong, dress appropriately. You should wear long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt. If you have a hat on, be prepared to take it off. You will also be asked to remove your shoes before entering any of the temples.
When visiting a Dzong, dress appropriately. You should wear long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt. If you have a hat on, be prepared to take it off. You will also be asked to remove your shoes before entering any of the temples.
5. Getting Cash in Bhutan
Even though everyone tells you that there are ATMs available in major towns around Bhutan – DO NOT expect them to work. If you can find one that works, you can withdraw money using a Visa or MasterCard. Your best option for getting Bhutanese Ngultrum (Nu) is to bring cash with you and convert it at the Paro Airport. There is a booth inside the airport where you can exchange large bills (US $, Pounds, Euros, etc). The second-best option is to ask your guide to stop at a local bank and have them go in with you to exchange it.
6. Hiking to Tiger's Nest Monastery
The culmination of most tours is the hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Constructed in 1692, it is a sacred Buddhist site sitting 10,000ft (3,000m) above sea level, perched on the side of a cliff. You can expect the hike to take four to five hours. The 4mi (6.5km) return trip has an elevation gain of 1,700ft (520m), which is tough no matter how many days you have had to acclimate, but the journey is worth every bit of discomfort. For those that do not think they can hike the entire way, you can hire a horse to take you half-way. You will have to walk the other half, and the entire way down. Or you can just stop and enjoy the views from the cafeteria, which is conveniently located at the half-way point. If you can make it to the monastery, the journey down, is much, much easier.
Wear good hiking shoes and use hiking poles to give your knees extra support on the ascent and descent. Drink lots of water before and during the hike to stay hydrated and remember to have a little cash if you want a Tiger’s Nest t-shirt that can be purchased at the cafeteria
7. Tour Guides
If you are doing your research on Bhutan, you have, by now, discovered that you can only travel to Bhutan through a licensed Bhutanese tour company and that you will have a tour guide and driver for the entire journey. Having a guide and driver is actually a good thing. Your tour guide makes sure that you understand the history and culture of the people and places you visit. They can also answer any questions you may have. While tipping is optional in Bhutan, please plan to tip your guide and driver. They do a fantastic job of making sure you have a safe, enjoyable journey.
8. The Food
The food is spicy. Really SPICY, so take it easy at first. Most tourists eat most of their meals in hotels and restaurants that cater to westerners, so the food has been made much less spicy. To get a feel for real Bhutanese cuisine, ask your tour guide to arrange to eat one night at a local restaurant and be sure to try some of the local dishes. The most famous dish is ema datshi – rice and spicy chilies topped off with a delicious cheese sauce. There are also several variations such as - Kewa datshi which is made up of sliced potatoes and cheese, and – you guessed it - chilies.
Another popular option is momos, which can be found everywhere in Bhutan. Fried or steamed inside a flour dough, these meat, cheese or vegetable filled snacks are best enjoyed with a chili sauce.
If you have the chance to try ara – a hot, highly alcoholic beverage – do so. It is a little like straight-up moonshine.
9. Hotels
Remember when traveling to Bhutan you are traveling to a country that just got TV and Internet in the late 1990’s. Many people in remote villages still do not have electricity or running water. That being said, the 3-star hotels are surprisingly nice. There are some 4-5-star options that are really, really nice. Remember that you can always ask your tour specialist if you would like to upgrade to a nicer hotel. The daily tariff that you pay typically covers a 3-star hotel. Expect the rooms to be nice and have all the amenities. Bhutan gets cold at night – you will see a variety of different ways to keep your room warm. Some room have plug in heaters, some have wall heaters, and some have wood burning stoves. No matter which option you end up with, you will stay warm all night. One oddity I found in many of the 3-star hotels is that, while the room is heated, the bathrooms are not always heated. Makes for cold feet and quick (albeit hot) showers. If your hotel offers an authentic hot-stone bath – take one!
10. Eastern Bhutan
The typical tourist track is Paro-Thimphu- Punakha and back to Paro. If you have time, travel the road less traveled – go to Haa (quaint town SW of Paro and takes you over the highest pass in Bhutan) or travel to any town in the east. Eastern Bhutan is rarely visited by travelers, and there is much to see on this side of the country. Discover secluded valleys and nature reserves, home to the very rare black-necked cranes. Local festivals in this region will provide an authentic experience of the local culture, far different to the touristy festivals that occur in and around Paro. If you are short on time and still want to travel east, talk to your travel specialist about options to fly to Bumthang or Trashigang.